My Venice: The Good, the Bad, and the Aperol
The tips below aren’t meant to be some “ultimate guide” written for SEO. They’re just a collection of places I’ve actually been to and enjoyed. Spots where I’ve celebrated birthdays, gone on my first-ever date with my now-husband, or grabbed an easy Saturday night dinner. After six years of living in Venice — and returning every summer for nearly three months — I’ve learned what’s worth your time (and euros)… and what’s not.
Below, you’ll find my personal picks for food, drinks, and places to stay — the ones I trust, return to, and recommend to friends without hesitation.
Where to Stay
If you’re looking for the classic Venetian luxury experience, it’s hard to beat the interiors and atmosphere of Hotel Danieli, Gritti Palace, and the Aman. Booking a room at any of these will cost a small fortune — but even if you don’t stay there, they’re worth a walk-in visit. Think: museum-level decor, palatial lounges, and cocktail terraces with unbeatable views. My personal favorite is the Gritti Palace, where you can enjoy a drink or meal on their elegant terrace overlooking the Grand Canal. The Aman also features a beautiful courtyard and indoor cocktail lounge, while the Hotel Danieli offers a rooftop terrace (though beware — the rooftop can sometimes have a bit of a pigeon problem!).
For something more affordable but still centrally located in Sestiere San Marco, here are a few hotel options I genuinely recommend:
Gritti Palace / Booking.com
Hotel Flora – A charming hotel with a peaceful garden courtyard, perfect for morning coffee or an afternoon rest.
Hotel Firenze – Just a 10-second walk from Piazza San Marco, incredibly convenient and easy to reach.
Novecento Boutique Hotel – Tucked away in a quiet calle (small Venetian street), this is a cozy escape near the Accademia Bridge and just outside the busiest tourist paths.
Hotel Saturnia – In addition to being a lovely place to stay, this hotel is home to Ristorante La Caravella — a beautiful restaurant and hotel bar that my husband and I used to frequent. It’s well worth a jaunt to the restaurant/bar, whether or not you’re staying in the hotel.
Another great option is renting an apartment or home through Truly Venice Apartments. Think: upscale Airbnb, but with a more personalized and reliable experience. All properties are bookable directly through their site, and typically require a 3- or 5-night minimum stay. I especially love recommending this company because it’s run by a family friend, Daniela (“Dani”) Scarcia, a local who has built a reputation for excellent service and beautifully managed stays.
Where to Eat & Drink
Venice has no shortage of restaurants, but only a handful truly live up to the charm and quality you’d hope for in a city like this. These are the places I continue to recommend to friends and family — no kickbacks, just trusted favorites.
⭐ Fine Dining & Special Nights Out
Al Covo – A local gem that deserves a Michelin star, according to many Venetians. It’s elegant, refined, and blissfully under-the-radar — no tourist mobs here.
Trattoria Do Forni – One of Venice’s most historic fine-dining institutions. One of the rooms is modeled after a train cabin (à la the Orient Express), and the whole experience feels like a special occasion. For New Orleanians, think Galatoire’s or Arnaud’s — formal, celebratory, and classic.
Local – One of the few Michelin-starred restaurants in Venice that actually balances innovation with authenticity. Run by a Venetian family, the menu is rooted in tradition but delivered with a modern twist.
al Covino – Tiny, cozy, romantic. This ~10-table spot is run by the same family as Al Covo and delivers equally excellent food in an intimate setting.
🍝 Casual Spots with Great Atmosphere
Ombra del Leone – Fresh, local dishes served on a terrace overlooking the Grand Canal. One of the best values in Venice for a waterfront meal — especially at sunset.
Ristorante da Raffaele – The food is solid, but the atmosphere is the real draw. Located on a quiet canal, it’s postcard-perfect for a dinner date.
Ristorante La Caravella – Nautical vibes and dark wood interiors make this spot feel like a classic Venetian yacht club. Great food, cocktails, and ambiance. We loved coming here when we lived nearby.
Rosa Rossa – This is where I go for my favorite northern-style pizza in Venice. Try the Pizza d’Oca (duck salami, taggiasca olives, mozzarella, truffle oil). Perfection.
1000 Gourmet – Nepalese-style pizza with thick, chewy dough and minimalist toppings. A fun modern twist that somehow works beautifully in Venice.
Paradiso Perduto – Loud, lively, and unapologetically local. This canalside osteria in Cannaregio is famous for its generous seafood platters, house wine served in jugs, and a festive, often chaotic energy — especially on live music nights. Come for the food, stay for the vibe. Book ahead or be ready to wait (and make friends while you do). Great for lunch or dinner.
Muro Frari – My personal favorite dinner spot in Venice. Located in the San Polo neighborhood, it draws a local crowd, serves consistently great food, and has a warm, lively vibe. The menu is expansive so if you arrive as a group of people who want to eat different things, everyone will be happy. Pro tip: get the antipasto di pesce misto (shared mixed seafood appetizer) and end your meal with a Sgroppino (lemon sorbet + vodka + prosecco).
Conca d’Oro – This pizzeria is famous not just for being the first in Venice, but for its wild “meter-long” pizza — served elevated above your table on tall glass mugs. You can mix-and-match toppings across the whole meter, making it ideal for groups (or indecisive eaters). It’s touristy, yes. But locals love it, too, and the pizza is legit.
🥪 Light Bites, Cafés & Hidden Finds
Rosa Salva – Great for a quick lunch or snack. Known for their tramezzini (triangular sandwiches) and pizzette (mini pizza pastries). Classic Venetian bar food.
Caffè Florian – The oldest café in Italy (some say Europe), located in St. Mark’s Square. Famous patrons like Hemingway and Guggenheim once sipped spritzes here. Yes, it’s expensive, but worth it at least once — especially if you sit inside and admire the lavish decor.
For more light bights, skip ahead to “Venetian Food to Know” and read about “Cicchetti.”
🍽️ Off the Beaten Path
Trattoria Andri (Lido) – If you find yourself on the Venice Lido, this is the place to eat. Locals love it for its refined, seasonal Venetian cuisine, served in classic Murano glassware with complimentary house-made grappa. Request a table on the terrace if it’s warm out! It’s also an under-the-radar celebrity sighting spot.
La Loggia Bistro – A newer favorite of ours right where the San Polo and Dorsoduro districts meet. The restaurant has beautiful interiors, wine-lined walls, and courtyard seating. Their menu is thoughtful and creative with lots of chef tasting surprises. Come hungry so you can try multiple courses!
Ristorante AcquaPazza – Southern Italian flavors in the heart of Venice. Expect truly exceptional, fresh seafood and pasta, with outdoor seating in warmer months.
🍸 Where to Drink
Bar Caravellino (Hotel Cavalletto) – A pocket-sized jewel box of a bar — all dark wood, gold accents, and wildly talented bartenders who mix up delicious drinks under glowing sconces and nostalgic tunes. It’s intimate, vibey, and the perfect pre-dinner (or post-Gondola) stop.
Il Mercante – This is my top recommendation for cocktails in Venice. Drinks here aren’t just poured — they’re composed. Every cocktail is tied to a historical story, and the menu reads like an old map. Think London speakeasy meets Venetian flair. If you like a good Negroni or want to try something totally new, this is your place.
Harry’s Bar – You’re here for the Bellini, because it was invented here. Tucked behind a discreet door near the Grand Canal, Harry’s is part history, part legend, and part Cipriani empire. Touristy? Absolutely. But it’s earned it.
Osteria Bancogiro – This is the Spritz-at-sunset spot. Right on the Grand Canal with a piazza view, it's picture-perfect. Yes, the waiter will upcharge you for sitting down, but honestly? Worth it. Note that the switch to strictly dinner table service around ~7ish (?) PM.
Al Merca (Rialto) – A true hole-in-the-wall gem just off the Rialto Market. Locals crowd around this tiny wine window for €3 spritzes and small cicchetti served on the fly. No tables, no frills — just stand, sip, and soak in the vibe. Perfect for a pre-dinner pause or spontaneous aperitivo stop during the day.
Al Merca (Lido di Venezia) – Not to be confused with its Rialto cousin, this Al Merca on the Lido is a laid-back aperitivo bar just steps from the beach. We usually arrive around 6-7PM from Thursday - Sunday to run into friends in this outdoor market setting. Very local. Also, their various polpette flavors (options like meat, eggplant, codfish, shrimp, etc.) are outstanding.
Bacaro Risorto – Tiny, friendly, and loved by locals. This is a classic Venetian bacaro — come by day or night for great cicchetti (Venetian tapas) and that easy, chatty vibe that only happens when you’re standing elbow to elbow with strangers.
Blue Drop (Lido di Venezia) – If you're headed to the Lido and craving a truly craft cocktail with a sea breeze, Blue Drop is your move. It’s an easygoing bar — one location on the beach, and another right by the Lido vaporetto stop overlooking the lagoon. We really just frequent the latter spot on Gran Viale, bustling with local Lido life and great people-watching.
“Antipasto di pesce misto” at Il Paradiso Perduto.
VENETIAN FOOD TO KNOW
Cicchetti – These are small bites (think: Venetian tapas) typically served at bacari, which are local wine bars. Grab a plate of mixed cicchetti with a spritz or glass of wine for a quick, casual lunch. They come in the form crostini (little toasted bites), polpette (meatballs — of tuna or meat or eggplant), mozzarella in carrozza (a fried sandwich bite — MUST TRY), and some other goodies. A few of my favorite bacari are: Bacarando Corte dell'Orso, Birreria Zanon, Osteria Al Squero, or Cantine del Vino già Schiavi.
Pizzette – Small, round pizza pastries, about the size of your palm. There are two main kinds: pizzette di sfoglia (made with puff pastry — flaky, buttery, and layered like a croissant) and pizzette di pane (more like mini focaccia — soft, doughy, and bready). Both are delightful, but if you're only trying one, I vote sfoglia. It’s like biting into a pizza and a pastry at the same time. The best? Tied. Pasticceria Bonifacio in San Marco and Scarpa Cosetta at the Lido. Flaky, rich, and dangerously addictive.
Antipasto di Pesce Misto – This mixed seafood starter is a staple in authentic Venetian restaurants. Expect things like baccalà mantecato (whipped cod), octopus salad, gamberi al saor (shrimp with onions and raisins in vinegar), and baked scallops served in-shell. Adventurous eaters: this is your move.
Sgroppino – A signature Venetian dessert cocktail made with lemon sorbet, vodka, and prosecco. Light, boozy, and refreshing. Don’t skip it.
Local Tip About Pricing:
Sitting down at a table (especially in major squares like Piazza San Marco) can significantly increase the price of your coffee or cocktail — sometimes triple! Standing at the bar is the more affordable, and more local, way to go. Particularly for the cafes in Piazza San Marco, you’re paying not just for the table; you’re paying for the orchestras.
And lastly, when ordering an Aperol Spritz, know that if you're paying more than €5–6, you're probably being overcharged (unless you’re at a place like Gritti Palace, where it’s closer to €22 — but you’re paying for the view).